Wednesday, May 31, 2006

Swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura

Kia Ora!

"Animals in the wild" was the theme of last weekend's trip in Kaikoura. Rachel (my mate from Illinois-Urbana/Champagne who is in Arcadia with me) and I saw 5 sperm whales, 250 dolphins, a seal colony, various types of albatross, and countless black shags.

Saturday morning we took a bus up to Christchurch (5 hrs), and then another one up to Kaikoura (2.5 hrs). Kaikoura is a small town situated right along the South Pacific coast of about 4,000 people, and is world-renowned for its whales and marine life. It only has become a tourist destination since 1987 when they began doing whale-watching tours. Saturday night the Christchurch Crusaders were playing the Wellington Hurricanes in rugby, and the whole town was decorated in red and black for the Crusaders. Rugby is absolutely HUGE here, and Rach and I watched the game in a packed bar. Afterwards, we met some really nice British and kiwi guys who we played pool with for the rest of the night.

Sunday we woke up really early and walked down to the beach where we watched a gorgeous sunrise, with the mountains to our left. It was quite a sight. We then went whale-watching with about 50 other people, and saw 5 sperm whales. We were lucky in two regards: The weather was clear enough to do the tour, since three days prior the tours had been cancelled, and two, most groups only see 1-2 whales. I never thought whale-watching sounded like a fun thing to do, but I was thoroughly impressed. The sheer magnitude of these whales was incredible, and seeing them dive into the water with the mountains as the backdrop was breathtaking. It was just like the cover of the Lonely Planet guidebook, haha. On our boatride back to the wharf, we passed a huge rock covered with black shags, a NZ bird that slightly resembles a heron. We also saw NZ fur seals bathing on the rocks.

Afterwards, Rach and I ate a delicious brunch in town. Two meals that are quite common in NZ: French toast topped with bacon and fried bananas( sooo healthy); and chicken sandwiches with brie cheese and cranberry sauce. Delish!

Next was Dolphin Encounter! We were given snorkel gear and a full wetsuit covering even our head, hands and feet. We then split up into two 12-person groups and boated 45 minutes out into the ocean where we met a smaller boat who had located a pod of 250 dolphins. Along the way we saw lots of albatross and another sperm whale. We then got into the water, surrounded by countless dolphins. Even though its winter here, and the water was about 11 degrees celsius, I don't even remember feeling how cold the water was because I was so overwhelmed by the incredulous sight of dolphins being a foot away from me. Dolphins are very smart and inquisitive creatures, and three things made them especially interested were: swimming around in circles (they circle with you and act like its a race), singing (I sang "Under the Sea" from the Little Mermaid and the Beatles' "I'd like to be...under the sea...in an octapus' garden..."), and lastly, taking dives into the water (while you're already in the water). It was amazing how much eye contact they gave me! After the pod swam away, we got on the boat and caught up with the dolphins again, and swam with them some more.


Monday morning, Rachy and I woke up early, rented bikes from Dusky Lodge, our hostel, and rode to the peninsula where the seal colony was located. It was the most majestic bike ride I had ever took: on our left was mountains and seals bathing on the shore, and on our right was lush green hills with sheep grazing.

The only way I can put this is that Kaikoura is quite a special place.

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Life beyond traveling

Although I've mainly just written about my experiences while traveling, I've been having lots of fun in Dunedin as well! Here's some highlights:

  • Robin, Rach, Eric and I drove to the Caitlins, 1 1/2 hours south of Dunedin for a day trip, where we stopped intermittently and checked out different viewpoints and did some short tracks. The highlights were Nugget Point, Jack's Blowhole, Cathedral Caves, Purio Bay and Purakaunui Falls. The Caitlins are wayyyy underrated; we were quite surprised how pretty some of the areas were.
  • This past week I went on a 2-hour horse trek through the Otago hills and down to Blackhead beach. I trotted on Crocket for part of the time, and I feel a lot more secure on horses now after my lesson. I signed up through the rec and they drove me (and a Canadian girl, Carla) to Bums & Saddles, where we rode with our instructor Karen, who looked like Bonnie Raitt, haha. Between meeting Karen, and also the kiwi man who drove us, I realized just how friendly and personable the kiwi-nature is. So many kiwis I have met throughout my time here instantly have opened up to me and talked to me like I've known them all my life, and I think its an admirable quality.
  • A few weeks ago, Alexis, David and I took a wine-tasting class. We stuck to NZ and OZ wines, and Geoffrey Weston who owns a winery close-by lead the show. This was our lineup, although I'm leaving out a few: (the ones with an asterisk indicate my favs!)
  1. Boundary Kings Rd Pinot Noir
  2. Selaks Premium Pinot Noir
  3. Mission Cabernet Sauvignon
  4. Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon*
  5. C.J. Pask Roys Hill Merlot
  6. Dashwood Merlot*
  7. Mirrool Creek Shiraz*
  8. Red Knot Shiraz
  9. Brown Brothers Shiraz
  10. Tyrrell Aged Tawny Port
  • 'Alexis's Belgium Product Tasting'- We all dressed up in red, yellow or black and went to Waff's flat where we spent the night eating Belgium chocolate and drinking Belgian beer
  • Speight's brewery tour with 'The Fellowship' (David, Alexis and I) in Dunedin.
  • This week I officially have stopped taking pictures for the Critic because the past two weeks they didn't credit my photos, even though last week I reminded them to, so I've retired, haha.
  • Jim Rorimer from Arcadia had a wine-tasting party at his house last Thursday and Rachy won the contest, so her prize is to name Jim's lamb back on his farm at home in Shaker Hts, OH. The unveiling of the name Rachy picked is tonight, at another wine-tasting party!
  • I've also spent a lot of time on nice days in the botanic gardens behind my street, walking/running around the paths, and reading.
Other than all of this, I spend the rest of my time going to classes and writing essays. Even though I've been having an amazing time here, I still miss my family, Chief Wiggum, friends and Joe! Other aspects I miss about the US are country music, the diversity of the people (there are no black people or hispanics here!?!), and bagels. (haha, their bagels aren't the same!) I'm looking forward to seeing everyone in July!!!

Milford Sound

Friday, May 12:
Peter rented a 12-person van (Hommy, aka, shoilet!) for the weekend and we headed out of Dunedin at around 2pm. Our group included Robin (my neighbor), Peter, David, Alexis, Eric (all from the 480 complex), as well as Sean(who goes to PENN with Peter) and Rachel. Rachy + myself = the loudest people known to man. We drove 3 1/2 hours to Te Anau, a scenic drive beginning with rolling green hills, and ending in huge mountains and glaciers. We checked into Lakefront Backpackers, which had a majestic overlook of the Southern Alps and the lake from the porch outside our rooms. We headed into the small town, which is surrounded in mountains, and watched Ata Whenua which was a beautiful 30-min film showing the natural beauty of Fiordland (also called Shadowland) in all its seasons. Afterwards, we headed to The Ranch for dinner, and spent the rest of the evening on the porch enjoying the view of the mountains and playing cards in our room. (B.S.-PB and shoilet, 'Moewm' game)

Saturday, May 13:
We had breakfast at the hostel, walked around Lake Te Anau, and visited the bird refuge, where all the birds instinctively flocked towards Sean, haha. My favourite were the keas (inquisitive mountain parrots) and takahes.

We drove two hours to Milford on a winding road through the mountains, stopping along the way at the Mirror Lakes and various other viewpoints. We then boarded the 'Milford Mariner' which sleeps 60 people. Unfortunately, for the first day of the cruise, it was a bit cloudy so we couldn't see the mountains very clearly, but it gave Milford a very mysterious aura. After boating around for a while and spotting some seals, we kayaked around part of the sound. (single kayaks) It was my first time kayaking, and I loved every second of it. It started raining around dinner time and didn't stop until the morning, which was cool b/c the waterfalls were huge the next day. We had a delectable dinner and dessert, I love NZ's pavlova! We then watched a slideshow about Fiordland, everyone played cards, and I read the Da Vinci Code.
Then it was off to bed! (the corridors of the ship reminded me of the movie Titanic)

Sunday, May 14:
We woke up at 6:45am, and ate breakfast as we watched the sun come up over the mountains. The most exciting news was that it was a clear day, which is hard to come by in Fiordland!! We sailed out to the Tasman Sea where we could see the moon on one side of us and the sun rising on the other. It was soooo much more rocky out in the sea compared to the calm sound. (which technically is a fiord since it came from a river and not a glacier) Anyways, the rest of the morning we spent sailing around the sound, taking in the surreal scenery. We boated really close to Sterling Falls, as well as passing a ton of other waterfalls. I decided that Milford Sound is quite different than Doubtful Sound, even though they're both in Fiordland. Milford is a bit steeper, and has more rocky mountains and cliffs, while Doubtful is a much longer sound with more crevices and islands, and less rocky. Both good, but different.

After we arrived back at the wharf, we found out that the weather was supposed to get bad and we needed chains for our tires. However, since we didn't have chains and couldn't buy them either, we left before we potentially would be snowed in. (we later found out that it snowed a ton!) We stopped again in Te Anau on the way home for lunch, and spent the roadtrip playing stupid car games. I gave the roadtrip an A+

The next morning, David and I were looking at the pictures from our trip, and I was overwhelmed thinking about my experience thus far in NZ. I never imagined that a place could be so beautiful. Much of NZ is untouched by civilization and that's hard to come by that these days. The remoteness, serenity and sparse population in certain areas is what makes this place so special to me.

Wellington!?!

Thursday, April 17:
After a delightful flat white with Kate and Avery (from 480) at Jerry's Garage, Alex (my German neighbor) drove Alexis, David and I to the Dunedin airport, which is about 1/2 hour from my flat. We were a little concerned about flying since only two days before the airport closed due to all the rain and flooding. Fortunately, everything worked out fine and our flight to Wellington was smooth. (Wellington, the capital, is located on the south tip of the north island)

We got a shuttle from the airport to our hostel, Downtown Backpackers, on Waterloo by the Railway station, where we could even see the Beehive (one of the Parliment buildings). We then walked around the downtown area for a while and had dinner at an upscale restaurant/pub called the Malthouse. We decided to save our bar-hopping energy for the next two nights, and picked up some Speights, that we drank in the hostel. I taught Waffs and David how to play Kings and we had a really fun night.

Friday, April 28:
Apparently I talk in my sleep, haha. Anyways, we walked around the parliment buildings (NZ is a sovereign constitutional monarchy within the Commonwealth, and although the Queen is the head of state and Helen Clark is the Prime Minister(whoohoo for female leaders!), the parliament plays a huge role) We then took a bus to Owhiro Bay, collected some really pretty shells along the shore, and did part of the Red Rocks Coastal Walk. Next, we took a bus to Mt. Victoria where we saw a beautiful view of Wellington. We then walked around the city for a while, and I decided how much I loved Wellington. It has all the qualities of a big city, yet only 200-250,000 people actually live there. It has a very classy and artsy feel, with lots of cute cafes, expensive stores and museums.

We picked up some wine that we drank in the hostel, and then walked to Flying Burrito Brothers, which was soooo delish! (I love mole sauce!) Afterwards, we hit up an Irish pub, Molly Malones, and Shooters, were did a lot of dancing. We ran out of Shooters b/c this one guy looked like he was gonna fight Waffs, haha, the three of us were cracking up. We played pool at our hostel with these two pool sharks who kicked our ass, and then David lost his money playing 'Who wants to be a Millionaire.' What a night.

Saturday, April 29:
'The Fellowship' hopped on a train and headed to Porirua, where we thought we could find some good tracks to hike. However, Porirua looked like an abandoned, ghetto town, and the hike we took looked like it hadn't been trampled on in 20 years. It was very lush though, and we later read that part of LOTR was filmed there. (The scene in the first film where the 4 hobbits are running away from the black knights) We ended up getting a bit lost on the mountain, and we were a little concerned about getting back before it got dark. However, we made it out, after a perilously steep hike down. We fed a donkey who we named Harold for a while and then took the train back to Wellington. (and David taught me how to play the game 'Digger')

There was a rugby game that night and the city went mad; people everywhere were decked out in Hurricane paraphernalia. David, Waffs and I on the other hand, drank Speights again in the hostel, and walked to a Belgian bar, Leuven. We had a high-class evening as Alexis introduced David and I to Belgian beer and cuisine. Afterwards we went to this Guinness bar across the street where we met this really hyper American girl who told us her life story about how she didn't want to leave NZ so she married a kiwi who she was dating for a month. She was from TX...

That night a Swiss girl named Heidi stayed in our room, and she was sooooo nice and funny. We stayed up for a while and talked with her.

Sunday, April 30:
We ate breakfast with Heidi and checked out Wellington Harbour, eventually making to the Te Papa Museum(Maori for 'our place'). Usually I'm not a fan of museums, but I completely approve of this one! We checked out the LOTR exhibit, and even though I'm not a freak for the movies like David, it was really interesting to see how they filmed them, as well as see the costumes, models, and artwork. (Btw, I love the song "Concerning Hobbits" from the soundtrack!)Te Papa also had a cool exhibit on Maori culture. We ate lunch at a Turkish kebab place, (popular in NZ) and I introduced David and Alexis to Bubble Tea, my fav!

Our trip nearing its end, we went back to Leuven for a flat white, and then took a taxi back to the airport. (We had a really nice African driver who told us about his 16 brothers and 22 sisters, since his father had 5 wives!)

We had quite an amazing trip in Wellington(although I wish Becky could have been there with us like we planned), and I came to the conclusion that if I move to NZ, I'll either live in Wellington or Christchurch.

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Australian travels with Becaroo!

I've been a pretty bad about writing in this nifty little blog lately, b/c I've actually had some essays due, imagine that. It was actually more painful that usual to have work due, since I haven't actually had to turn anything in since December.

More importantly, onto my stories about my travels in Australia!

Friday April 14:
I hitched a ride to Christchurch, where my plane was to depart the next morning, with 4 other people from the 480 complex: Jane, Adam, Colin and Ellie. Jane drove, and we stopped at the Moeraki Boulders (huge bulbous-shaped rocks on the beach) an hour and a half into the trip. We hit up a fish and chips place once we got to Christchurch, which is the typical NZ and Aussie meal, but a bit too greasy for my taste. The white fish they use is actually baby shark from what I hear, called lemon fish. Oh, and 'chips' are really thick fries in NZ and OZ. Anyways, we hung out at Jane's friends house in Christchurch, and when I told her friends I was from Cleveland, they started singing "Cleveland Rocks" to me. I had no idea Drew Carey was that big...ridiculus. Later, Jane dropped me off at New Excelior Backpackers Hostel, where I shared a room with some English girls. I wish I would have never seen the movie Hostel, b/c I was quite scared staying there alone...

Saturday April 15:
The next morning, I took a bus to the airport and flew to Auckland (1 hr) and then Sydney, a 3 1/2 hour flight. The flight was smooth, probably due to the copious amounts of Shiraz I drank... I was really excited to see Becky though, and she met me at the gate with a "Welcome Lucinda to OZ" sign, haha. Becky's apartment is located in North Ryde, a suburb about an hour north of Sydney by train and then bus. I met her roomies, a Canadian (Ester), and two Americans (Sarah and Rachel), one of which is a J-student at MU. Later that night we took a bus into Sydney and hit up Cruise bar, which is right on the harbour, with a perfect view of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge at night...STUNNING. After living in sparsely populated NZ for a few months, it was overwhelming to be in such a big city again (4 million), with skyscrapers, lights and traffic. Upon hearing our accent, the bouncer at Cruise bar wouldn't let us in b/c he was too excited to talk to us about his love for America, haha. After that, we met two friendly Aussie guys, one of which (Jono)was exactly how I pictured an Aussie: friendly, crazy hair, tight pants, cowboy boots and a big belt (that said 'Nebraska' on it). I was quick to pick up on the fact that Aussies LOVE the US, seriously. More so than kiwis. Becky and I then walked around the Harbour for a while and then rode the bus back.

Sunday April 16:
Easter! (Becky got me a bunny with chocolate!) The whole trip we thankfully had gorgeous weather, most of the time it was between 25-28 degrees Celsius (much warmer than good ole Dunedin). We took the bus into Sydney again, and walked below the Harbour Bridge, walked to the Prime Minister's house, John Howard, where there were tons of police who were expecting a riot later that day. We walked across the Harbour Bridge and then around the Harbour, where we listened to aborigines play didgereedoos, and saw "statues" posing for money. We also went to the Rocks market and then the Opera House, which I didn't realize was actually three separate buildings. Next was the botanical gardens, where we saw (and heard) Flying Foxes, which are huge fruit bats that hang from the trees. I loved seeing the exotic birds, trees and flowers! We then walked to Darling Harbour where were got 'corn on a stick,' a popular thing in NZ and OZ, and watched two circuses that for whatever reason were set up for the public. Afterwards, we walked to the Chinese Friendship Gardens, where Bec and I dressed up like Chinese Royalty. I've never had more fun playing dressup in my life!!! We then hit up Paddy's market, which had a bunch of cheap Aussie stuff for tourists, and then we got flat whites to reenergize us. For dinner we met Emily and Rachel, both from MU's J-school, at Pancakes on the Rocks, which was, as Will Ferrell would say, ScrUmTrilleScent! We headed back to Becky's, watched some Ellen Degeneres standup (my fav!), and then walked to Macquarie Uni to check our email. I was quite excited b/c I received an email saying that I was elected VP of Meetings for Ad club next year!

Monday April 17:
Bec and I woke up early, took a bus and then a train (2 hrs) to Katoomba to see the Blue Mountains. We checked into our hostel, the Flying Fox, hit up a fresh fruit market, and hiked to see the Three Sisters. I'm not quite sure why its called the Blue Mountains, b/c it looked more similar to the Grand Canyon than actual mountains, but it was very pretty nonetheless! The Katoomba Cascades were cool as well. We then walked back into the tiny town of Katoomba, ate some Thai food, and returned to our hostel. I actually met a guy that was staying in our room from Avon, which is only 20 mins. from Lakewood!! It was a low key night, and we read by the fire in the hostel, which was a really laid-back, cozy place. (painted in really bright fun colors!)

Tuesday April 18:
Becky and I hiked in the Blue Mountains again, this time conquering the Giant Staircase and Furbur Stairs, easily the most stairs I'll ever walk in my entire life, whew. We then got kebabs, which are also a more common in OZ and NZ, and hoped back on the train to Sydney. Like the old ladies we are, Becky taught me how to knit, and I taught her how to crochet, which we subsequently did on all of our train and bus rides. That night we saw Walk the Line with Becky's Aussie friend Meredith.

Wednesday April 19:
Becky and I flew into Ballina, and took a shuttle to Byron Bay, a hippie surf town right on the beach. We stayed at the Arts Factory hostel, which has hands-down been the coolest hostel I've ever stayed. It had a very 70's feel to it, everyone was very friendly, there were murals everywhere, a Buddha bar, a cinema, arts studio, pool, hot tub, volleyball court, and "make your own didgereedoo" station. We headed into town, and I'd make a bet, there's probably no place in the world with more hippie shops in such a tiny area, seriously. However, for Bec and I it was perfect! We hung out at the Buddha bar early on, watching Cockadoo Paul's didgereedoo and guitar perfomance, and then won a free surf lesson from Mojosurf. (The crowd voted us as doing the best surf pose) We played pool, went into town, where we randomly ran into some American boys that Becky lives with in Sydney. We all went to Cheeky Monkey, which was packed with people, more of who were dancing on tables than on the ground. It was there that I found out that not only does NZ love the 80's, but so does Aussie! Thank god Becky was alright after falling off a table during "Living on a Prayer!"

Thursday April 20:
Like I said before, the Arts Factory has a 70's hippie vipe to it, so you could imagine how high everyone else got since it was 4-20. Becky and I walked into town, laid out on the beach, and then when to Mojosurf for our free surf lesson. We took a van with ten others from around the world, to Lennox Head beach, 20 mins away. Our instructors, Dan and James, had much better advice than my last surf instructors in NZ, and I got up on the first wave. Not only can I get up now, but I can ride the wave all the way in, it was such a gratifying experience! For dinner, Becky and I got mexican food, which tasted anything but mexican, haha, and then met some nice Israelis in the pool back at the Arts Factory. Later that night, there was music and a drum circle by the pond.

Friday April 21:
Woke up at 5am and took an Arts Factory van to the lighthouse on the hill in Byron Bay, where we walked to the "easternly most point in Australia" to watch the sunrise. It was quite the picturesque scene: the lighthouse, the beach, the sunrise... gorgeous. Afterwards, we packed up our stuff, shopped a bit in town, took a shuttle to the airport and flew back to Sydney. We took it easy for the rest of the night and watched A Very Long Engagement and Charlie & the Chocolate Factory. (with TimTams, delish!)

Saturday April 22:
Beach time!! We took the bus (once again) to the Harbour, then took a ferry to the town of Manly. We checked out the market for a while and then laid out on the beach, although the wind was a little chilly. After that Becky accidently got her ATM card stuck in an ATM b/c there was already a card in there, and in the meantime we randomly came across Brandon, another MU J-student studying at Macquarie. We got some Copenhagen ice cream and then took the ferry back, conveniently at sunset...ahhh. Becky, Brandon and I bought Toohey (a popular Aussie beer, but, let me note, different to NZ's popular beer, Tui) and watched Gladiator at Becky's.

Sunday April 23:
Sydney beaches, day 2! We took the bus to Bondi beach where we did a three hour coastal walk, passing probably five different beaches along the way, and finally ending up in Coogee. I found it funny how many pools I saw throughout my time in OZ that were right next to the ocean. It was a very "romantic" walk, and we decided Becky should get married there, that is, if she decides not to rebel against the institution of marriage. Oh, earlier that day, we saw kangaroos at the wildlife center on the Macquarie campus!

Monday April 24:
A nightmare. We woke up early and took a bus and then a train to the airport, however, our flights to NZ were different, so Becky and I split up once we got to the airport. I'm sitting waiting for my flight to board, and next thing I know, the flight attendant is announcing my name. I went to the desk, and they told me that Becky's ticket, which she had bought online, never had gone through in the computers, and therefore, she didn't have a ticket to NZ. Not only had Becky's ATM card got cancelled a few days before, but somehow that day she lost her credit card...hence, she didn't buy a new ticket to NZ, and took the three incidents that had happened in a matter of two days as a sign telling her not to go to NZ. After arriving in Christchurch I called Becky, and although we both were realllly bummed out that our plan to travel in NZ for a week was shot down, we both decided to travel around NZ in a few years to make up for it.

So I there I was, alone in Christchurch, at Charlie B's backpacker's hostel. I later decided that it was better that Becky didn't come to NZ, b/c the subsequent days that we had planned for traveling, were cloudy, and it never stopped raining. I'm really not joking: Dunedin's airport got closed down because of the flooding that was happening in the area, the Leith River was overflowing, and on the news, they declared it a "civil emergency." (although I thought that was dramatic) My time is Christchurch was tainted by the crappy weather and the fact that my plans to show Becky around this beautiful country were ruined. However, the two european girls (Danish and German) I was dorming with in the hostel really made me feel better. It was basically the three of us chatting in our beds like twelve year olds having a slumber party, talking about our different experiences in NZ.

Tuesday April 25:
Anzac Day, a national holiday in both NZ and OZ, commemorating the soldiers who died in WWI fighting as part of the ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps).

I woke up early in hopes of going up the gondola to see the mountains, however it was rainy and cloudy, so I just walked around the town until I was too soaked to take it anymore. I ended up reading all day in a coffeeshop (where these two Christian American older ladies were overjoyed to talk to an another American) until it was time for my shuttle back to Dunedin. I met a really nice kiwi guy on the bus who I had dinner with, and I finally finished the scarf I was knitting, which I ended up giving to Alexis.

Although my trip came to an premature end, I had a very memorable time with Becky in OZ!