Saturday, July 01, 2006

Oh how the time flies!

KIA ORA~

So it's my last night here in Dunedin, New Zealand and I'm overwhelmed. I can't believe the 5 months have gone by so quickly, and all I can say is that I've fallen in love with this country. The landscape, the lifestyle and the friendliness of the people.

My parents left yesterday after we did a roadtrip of the south island. I thought I had a pretty good feel for how majestic NZ was before they came, but our travels up the west coast showed me just how endless the southern alps really are. We had beautiful clear weather the whole time, and we saw almost all of the south island. We went on 2 brewery tours, 1 winery tour, cruised Milford Sound, took a helicopter up to Franz Josef Glacier where we hiked around the crevasses, my mom bunjy jumped Kawarau Bridge (where I jumped a few months ago), mountain luged, snowboarded at Coronet Peak, checked out Christchurch , etc, etc, etc.....

Being away from the states has made me realize just how bad I want to go back overseas after I graduate from Mizzou. I love being emersed in new cultures, and I LOVE TRAVELING and meeting new people! I would love to come back to New Zealand and get a job in either Wellington or Christchurch in a few years time. Either that, or move to Europe. Or do both, haha. Its funny because even though I'm from the states, I sometimes feel more comfortable here in New Zealand with their laid-back lifestyle, than I do in the US. It sucks because I'm at the point in my stay where I'm finally feeling like my flat is home to me, and that Dunedin is home, yet tomorrow I'll have to leave all of that behind. Sad.

The world is too big to stay in America, and I hope that I'll be able to return to the South Pacific in a few years with a degree or two.

Saturday, June 17, 2006

Final days in the land down under

So the time is finally winding down, and I'll be leaving the land down under on July 2. It's a bittersweet feeling, I've made some really close friends here, visited breath-taking places, and NZ is no longer just a place on the map. It's full of crazy memories. However, on the flip-side, I'm looking forward to spending my summer in Columbia soaking up the sun after living in unheated flats in the winter right now.

Alexis and Peter were the first to leave- and although I know I'll see them again, it makes me sad thinking about how fast the time went by. David left a few days ago- it was devastating saying bye...we became so close this semester, and its sad to think that the only times I'll be seeing him in the future are on vacations, instead of living together. Rachel and I are here in NZ for a bit longer, and it won't be as bad saying bye to her because Joe and I are going up to Chicago in late July to go to the Cubs/Cardinals game with her. (she's from Chicago) In terms of goodbyes, I guess rather than loathing on the fact that I won't be seeing some of the close friends I have made for a while, I should just think about all the crazy nights and fun trips we went on...or look at pictures.

As far as uni goes, I have one last final, Maori, and it should be pretty easy. I got A's on all my essays here, so hopefully that will equate to A's for my final grades. My Hinduism and Buddhism class was the toughest, and it's also changed a lot of my views on religion. I learned the most probably in Governing Bodies, my gender studies course.

Steve Lagle, a friend from Mizzou in Phi Sigma Pi with me, who is studying in Wellington right now flew down last weekend to ski in the south island with me. Unfortunately for us we didn't end up doing any skiing/snowboarding b/c Coronet Peak in Queenstown didn't have enough snow, and Dobson and Mt. Hutt up north were too windy and the chair-lifts weren't running. Boooo. We then drove to Mt. Cook to do some day hikes, but when we got there it was cloudy and raining, so we made the disappointed drive back to Dunedin. We did however go on the Taieri Gorge Railway the following day, which departed from the Railway station in Dunedin, and went through a scenic gorge, and pretty hillsides for 4 hrs.

I'm planning on hitting up the slopes when my parents come this Tuesday. I miss snowboarding so much and I'm psyched!?! Here' s the breakdown of our roadtrip of the South Island:

Tuesday June 20
Parents arrive, Commodore hotel, Penguin/Peninsula tour, Tunnel Beach, Botanic Gardens, World's Steepest Street, Larnach Castle (not a legit castle though...), Tull's for dessert (restaurant named after Jethro Tull that has delishdelish desserts!)

Wednesday June 21
Hike Mt. Cargill, Cadbury Chocolate Factory tour, check out Otago campus, Art Museum, Geoff Weston's wine tasting at his house/winery, Speight's Brewery tour, Ale House

Thursday June 22
Drive to Queenstown, fly to Milford Sound, do a cruise of Milford Sound and boat out to the Tasman Sea, fly back to Queenstown (4 hours total), gondola, mountain luge, ice bar, Pinewood Lodge

Friday June 23
Ski either at the Remarkables, or Coronet Peak in Queenstown, wohooo!!

Saturday June 24
Visit Kawarau Bridge where hopefully one of my parents will bungy jump, Drive to Wanaka

Sunday June 25
Day hikes in Wanaka (Iron Mountain Reserve hike), Puzzle World, drive to Fox Glacier

Monday June 26
Heli Hike in Fox Glacier (3 hours, you take a helicopter up to the glacier and hike for two hours) http://www.foxguides.co.nz/helihike.asp , possibly Sky Dive

Tuesday June 27
Day hikes at both Fox Glacier and Franz Josef, drive to Hokitika or Greymouth.

Wednesday June 28
Monteith's Brewery tour in Greymouth at 10am (beer for breakfast!), Pancake rocks, Drive to Arthur's pass and do a day hike, continue on to Christchurch.

Thursday June 29
Tranz Alpine Railroad from Christchurch to Greymouth and back (8am-6pm) -OR- hang out in Christchurch (gondola, Antarctic Museum, Kiwi Encounter, Crater Rim, Arts Center, Hammner Springs)

Friday June 30
Make the boring drive back to goold ole Dunedin, stopping at the Moeraki Boulders along the way, say bye to my wonderful parents!!!

July 2: Leave Aotearoa, "the land of the long white cloud", and fly into St. Louis where Joe (who I've missed dearly) will pick me up!!! Stay in MO for a few days, fly home for a few days, and then spend the rest of the summer in Columbia getting residency. Yep, that's the story.

Oh, I highly recommend seeing 'World's Fastest Indian' with Anthony Hopkins. Its a good one, and even better, he's a kiwi in the film.

Wednesday, May 31, 2006

Swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura

Kia Ora!

"Animals in the wild" was the theme of last weekend's trip in Kaikoura. Rachel (my mate from Illinois-Urbana/Champagne who is in Arcadia with me) and I saw 5 sperm whales, 250 dolphins, a seal colony, various types of albatross, and countless black shags.

Saturday morning we took a bus up to Christchurch (5 hrs), and then another one up to Kaikoura (2.5 hrs). Kaikoura is a small town situated right along the South Pacific coast of about 4,000 people, and is world-renowned for its whales and marine life. It only has become a tourist destination since 1987 when they began doing whale-watching tours. Saturday night the Christchurch Crusaders were playing the Wellington Hurricanes in rugby, and the whole town was decorated in red and black for the Crusaders. Rugby is absolutely HUGE here, and Rach and I watched the game in a packed bar. Afterwards, we met some really nice British and kiwi guys who we played pool with for the rest of the night.

Sunday we woke up really early and walked down to the beach where we watched a gorgeous sunrise, with the mountains to our left. It was quite a sight. We then went whale-watching with about 50 other people, and saw 5 sperm whales. We were lucky in two regards: The weather was clear enough to do the tour, since three days prior the tours had been cancelled, and two, most groups only see 1-2 whales. I never thought whale-watching sounded like a fun thing to do, but I was thoroughly impressed. The sheer magnitude of these whales was incredible, and seeing them dive into the water with the mountains as the backdrop was breathtaking. It was just like the cover of the Lonely Planet guidebook, haha. On our boatride back to the wharf, we passed a huge rock covered with black shags, a NZ bird that slightly resembles a heron. We also saw NZ fur seals bathing on the rocks.

Afterwards, Rach and I ate a delicious brunch in town. Two meals that are quite common in NZ: French toast topped with bacon and fried bananas( sooo healthy); and chicken sandwiches with brie cheese and cranberry sauce. Delish!

Next was Dolphin Encounter! We were given snorkel gear and a full wetsuit covering even our head, hands and feet. We then split up into two 12-person groups and boated 45 minutes out into the ocean where we met a smaller boat who had located a pod of 250 dolphins. Along the way we saw lots of albatross and another sperm whale. We then got into the water, surrounded by countless dolphins. Even though its winter here, and the water was about 11 degrees celsius, I don't even remember feeling how cold the water was because I was so overwhelmed by the incredulous sight of dolphins being a foot away from me. Dolphins are very smart and inquisitive creatures, and three things made them especially interested were: swimming around in circles (they circle with you and act like its a race), singing (I sang "Under the Sea" from the Little Mermaid and the Beatles' "I'd like to be...under the sea...in an octapus' garden..."), and lastly, taking dives into the water (while you're already in the water). It was amazing how much eye contact they gave me! After the pod swam away, we got on the boat and caught up with the dolphins again, and swam with them some more.


Monday morning, Rachy and I woke up early, rented bikes from Dusky Lodge, our hostel, and rode to the peninsula where the seal colony was located. It was the most majestic bike ride I had ever took: on our left was mountains and seals bathing on the shore, and on our right was lush green hills with sheep grazing.

The only way I can put this is that Kaikoura is quite a special place.

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Life beyond traveling

Although I've mainly just written about my experiences while traveling, I've been having lots of fun in Dunedin as well! Here's some highlights:

  • Robin, Rach, Eric and I drove to the Caitlins, 1 1/2 hours south of Dunedin for a day trip, where we stopped intermittently and checked out different viewpoints and did some short tracks. The highlights were Nugget Point, Jack's Blowhole, Cathedral Caves, Purio Bay and Purakaunui Falls. The Caitlins are wayyyy underrated; we were quite surprised how pretty some of the areas were.
  • This past week I went on a 2-hour horse trek through the Otago hills and down to Blackhead beach. I trotted on Crocket for part of the time, and I feel a lot more secure on horses now after my lesson. I signed up through the rec and they drove me (and a Canadian girl, Carla) to Bums & Saddles, where we rode with our instructor Karen, who looked like Bonnie Raitt, haha. Between meeting Karen, and also the kiwi man who drove us, I realized just how friendly and personable the kiwi-nature is. So many kiwis I have met throughout my time here instantly have opened up to me and talked to me like I've known them all my life, and I think its an admirable quality.
  • A few weeks ago, Alexis, David and I took a wine-tasting class. We stuck to NZ and OZ wines, and Geoffrey Weston who owns a winery close-by lead the show. This was our lineup, although I'm leaving out a few: (the ones with an asterisk indicate my favs!)
  1. Boundary Kings Rd Pinot Noir
  2. Selaks Premium Pinot Noir
  3. Mission Cabernet Sauvignon
  4. Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon*
  5. C.J. Pask Roys Hill Merlot
  6. Dashwood Merlot*
  7. Mirrool Creek Shiraz*
  8. Red Knot Shiraz
  9. Brown Brothers Shiraz
  10. Tyrrell Aged Tawny Port
  • 'Alexis's Belgium Product Tasting'- We all dressed up in red, yellow or black and went to Waff's flat where we spent the night eating Belgium chocolate and drinking Belgian beer
  • Speight's brewery tour with 'The Fellowship' (David, Alexis and I) in Dunedin.
  • This week I officially have stopped taking pictures for the Critic because the past two weeks they didn't credit my photos, even though last week I reminded them to, so I've retired, haha.
  • Jim Rorimer from Arcadia had a wine-tasting party at his house last Thursday and Rachy won the contest, so her prize is to name Jim's lamb back on his farm at home in Shaker Hts, OH. The unveiling of the name Rachy picked is tonight, at another wine-tasting party!
  • I've also spent a lot of time on nice days in the botanic gardens behind my street, walking/running around the paths, and reading.
Other than all of this, I spend the rest of my time going to classes and writing essays. Even though I've been having an amazing time here, I still miss my family, Chief Wiggum, friends and Joe! Other aspects I miss about the US are country music, the diversity of the people (there are no black people or hispanics here!?!), and bagels. (haha, their bagels aren't the same!) I'm looking forward to seeing everyone in July!!!

Milford Sound

Friday, May 12:
Peter rented a 12-person van (Hommy, aka, shoilet!) for the weekend and we headed out of Dunedin at around 2pm. Our group included Robin (my neighbor), Peter, David, Alexis, Eric (all from the 480 complex), as well as Sean(who goes to PENN with Peter) and Rachel. Rachy + myself = the loudest people known to man. We drove 3 1/2 hours to Te Anau, a scenic drive beginning with rolling green hills, and ending in huge mountains and glaciers. We checked into Lakefront Backpackers, which had a majestic overlook of the Southern Alps and the lake from the porch outside our rooms. We headed into the small town, which is surrounded in mountains, and watched Ata Whenua which was a beautiful 30-min film showing the natural beauty of Fiordland (also called Shadowland) in all its seasons. Afterwards, we headed to The Ranch for dinner, and spent the rest of the evening on the porch enjoying the view of the mountains and playing cards in our room. (B.S.-PB and shoilet, 'Moewm' game)

Saturday, May 13:
We had breakfast at the hostel, walked around Lake Te Anau, and visited the bird refuge, where all the birds instinctively flocked towards Sean, haha. My favourite were the keas (inquisitive mountain parrots) and takahes.

We drove two hours to Milford on a winding road through the mountains, stopping along the way at the Mirror Lakes and various other viewpoints. We then boarded the 'Milford Mariner' which sleeps 60 people. Unfortunately, for the first day of the cruise, it was a bit cloudy so we couldn't see the mountains very clearly, but it gave Milford a very mysterious aura. After boating around for a while and spotting some seals, we kayaked around part of the sound. (single kayaks) It was my first time kayaking, and I loved every second of it. It started raining around dinner time and didn't stop until the morning, which was cool b/c the waterfalls were huge the next day. We had a delectable dinner and dessert, I love NZ's pavlova! We then watched a slideshow about Fiordland, everyone played cards, and I read the Da Vinci Code.
Then it was off to bed! (the corridors of the ship reminded me of the movie Titanic)

Sunday, May 14:
We woke up at 6:45am, and ate breakfast as we watched the sun come up over the mountains. The most exciting news was that it was a clear day, which is hard to come by in Fiordland!! We sailed out to the Tasman Sea where we could see the moon on one side of us and the sun rising on the other. It was soooo much more rocky out in the sea compared to the calm sound. (which technically is a fiord since it came from a river and not a glacier) Anyways, the rest of the morning we spent sailing around the sound, taking in the surreal scenery. We boated really close to Sterling Falls, as well as passing a ton of other waterfalls. I decided that Milford Sound is quite different than Doubtful Sound, even though they're both in Fiordland. Milford is a bit steeper, and has more rocky mountains and cliffs, while Doubtful is a much longer sound with more crevices and islands, and less rocky. Both good, but different.

After we arrived back at the wharf, we found out that the weather was supposed to get bad and we needed chains for our tires. However, since we didn't have chains and couldn't buy them either, we left before we potentially would be snowed in. (we later found out that it snowed a ton!) We stopped again in Te Anau on the way home for lunch, and spent the roadtrip playing stupid car games. I gave the roadtrip an A+

The next morning, David and I were looking at the pictures from our trip, and I was overwhelmed thinking about my experience thus far in NZ. I never imagined that a place could be so beautiful. Much of NZ is untouched by civilization and that's hard to come by that these days. The remoteness, serenity and sparse population in certain areas is what makes this place so special to me.

Wellington!?!

Thursday, April 17:
After a delightful flat white with Kate and Avery (from 480) at Jerry's Garage, Alex (my German neighbor) drove Alexis, David and I to the Dunedin airport, which is about 1/2 hour from my flat. We were a little concerned about flying since only two days before the airport closed due to all the rain and flooding. Fortunately, everything worked out fine and our flight to Wellington was smooth. (Wellington, the capital, is located on the south tip of the north island)

We got a shuttle from the airport to our hostel, Downtown Backpackers, on Waterloo by the Railway station, where we could even see the Beehive (one of the Parliment buildings). We then walked around the downtown area for a while and had dinner at an upscale restaurant/pub called the Malthouse. We decided to save our bar-hopping energy for the next two nights, and picked up some Speights, that we drank in the hostel. I taught Waffs and David how to play Kings and we had a really fun night.

Friday, April 28:
Apparently I talk in my sleep, haha. Anyways, we walked around the parliment buildings (NZ is a sovereign constitutional monarchy within the Commonwealth, and although the Queen is the head of state and Helen Clark is the Prime Minister(whoohoo for female leaders!), the parliament plays a huge role) We then took a bus to Owhiro Bay, collected some really pretty shells along the shore, and did part of the Red Rocks Coastal Walk. Next, we took a bus to Mt. Victoria where we saw a beautiful view of Wellington. We then walked around the city for a while, and I decided how much I loved Wellington. It has all the qualities of a big city, yet only 200-250,000 people actually live there. It has a very classy and artsy feel, with lots of cute cafes, expensive stores and museums.

We picked up some wine that we drank in the hostel, and then walked to Flying Burrito Brothers, which was soooo delish! (I love mole sauce!) Afterwards, we hit up an Irish pub, Molly Malones, and Shooters, were did a lot of dancing. We ran out of Shooters b/c this one guy looked like he was gonna fight Waffs, haha, the three of us were cracking up. We played pool at our hostel with these two pool sharks who kicked our ass, and then David lost his money playing 'Who wants to be a Millionaire.' What a night.

Saturday, April 29:
'The Fellowship' hopped on a train and headed to Porirua, where we thought we could find some good tracks to hike. However, Porirua looked like an abandoned, ghetto town, and the hike we took looked like it hadn't been trampled on in 20 years. It was very lush though, and we later read that part of LOTR was filmed there. (The scene in the first film where the 4 hobbits are running away from the black knights) We ended up getting a bit lost on the mountain, and we were a little concerned about getting back before it got dark. However, we made it out, after a perilously steep hike down. We fed a donkey who we named Harold for a while and then took the train back to Wellington. (and David taught me how to play the game 'Digger')

There was a rugby game that night and the city went mad; people everywhere were decked out in Hurricane paraphernalia. David, Waffs and I on the other hand, drank Speights again in the hostel, and walked to a Belgian bar, Leuven. We had a high-class evening as Alexis introduced David and I to Belgian beer and cuisine. Afterwards we went to this Guinness bar across the street where we met this really hyper American girl who told us her life story about how she didn't want to leave NZ so she married a kiwi who she was dating for a month. She was from TX...

That night a Swiss girl named Heidi stayed in our room, and she was sooooo nice and funny. We stayed up for a while and talked with her.

Sunday, April 30:
We ate breakfast with Heidi and checked out Wellington Harbour, eventually making to the Te Papa Museum(Maori for 'our place'). Usually I'm not a fan of museums, but I completely approve of this one! We checked out the LOTR exhibit, and even though I'm not a freak for the movies like David, it was really interesting to see how they filmed them, as well as see the costumes, models, and artwork. (Btw, I love the song "Concerning Hobbits" from the soundtrack!)Te Papa also had a cool exhibit on Maori culture. We ate lunch at a Turkish kebab place, (popular in NZ) and I introduced David and Alexis to Bubble Tea, my fav!

Our trip nearing its end, we went back to Leuven for a flat white, and then took a taxi back to the airport. (We had a really nice African driver who told us about his 16 brothers and 22 sisters, since his father had 5 wives!)

We had quite an amazing trip in Wellington(although I wish Becky could have been there with us like we planned), and I came to the conclusion that if I move to NZ, I'll either live in Wellington or Christchurch.

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Australian travels with Becaroo!

I've been a pretty bad about writing in this nifty little blog lately, b/c I've actually had some essays due, imagine that. It was actually more painful that usual to have work due, since I haven't actually had to turn anything in since December.

More importantly, onto my stories about my travels in Australia!

Friday April 14:
I hitched a ride to Christchurch, where my plane was to depart the next morning, with 4 other people from the 480 complex: Jane, Adam, Colin and Ellie. Jane drove, and we stopped at the Moeraki Boulders (huge bulbous-shaped rocks on the beach) an hour and a half into the trip. We hit up a fish and chips place once we got to Christchurch, which is the typical NZ and Aussie meal, but a bit too greasy for my taste. The white fish they use is actually baby shark from what I hear, called lemon fish. Oh, and 'chips' are really thick fries in NZ and OZ. Anyways, we hung out at Jane's friends house in Christchurch, and when I told her friends I was from Cleveland, they started singing "Cleveland Rocks" to me. I had no idea Drew Carey was that big...ridiculus. Later, Jane dropped me off at New Excelior Backpackers Hostel, where I shared a room with some English girls. I wish I would have never seen the movie Hostel, b/c I was quite scared staying there alone...

Saturday April 15:
The next morning, I took a bus to the airport and flew to Auckland (1 hr) and then Sydney, a 3 1/2 hour flight. The flight was smooth, probably due to the copious amounts of Shiraz I drank... I was really excited to see Becky though, and she met me at the gate with a "Welcome Lucinda to OZ" sign, haha. Becky's apartment is located in North Ryde, a suburb about an hour north of Sydney by train and then bus. I met her roomies, a Canadian (Ester), and two Americans (Sarah and Rachel), one of which is a J-student at MU. Later that night we took a bus into Sydney and hit up Cruise bar, which is right on the harbour, with a perfect view of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge at night...STUNNING. After living in sparsely populated NZ for a few months, it was overwhelming to be in such a big city again (4 million), with skyscrapers, lights and traffic. Upon hearing our accent, the bouncer at Cruise bar wouldn't let us in b/c he was too excited to talk to us about his love for America, haha. After that, we met two friendly Aussie guys, one of which (Jono)was exactly how I pictured an Aussie: friendly, crazy hair, tight pants, cowboy boots and a big belt (that said 'Nebraska' on it). I was quick to pick up on the fact that Aussies LOVE the US, seriously. More so than kiwis. Becky and I then walked around the Harbour for a while and then rode the bus back.

Sunday April 16:
Easter! (Becky got me a bunny with chocolate!) The whole trip we thankfully had gorgeous weather, most of the time it was between 25-28 degrees Celsius (much warmer than good ole Dunedin). We took the bus into Sydney again, and walked below the Harbour Bridge, walked to the Prime Minister's house, John Howard, where there were tons of police who were expecting a riot later that day. We walked across the Harbour Bridge and then around the Harbour, where we listened to aborigines play didgereedoos, and saw "statues" posing for money. We also went to the Rocks market and then the Opera House, which I didn't realize was actually three separate buildings. Next was the botanical gardens, where we saw (and heard) Flying Foxes, which are huge fruit bats that hang from the trees. I loved seeing the exotic birds, trees and flowers! We then walked to Darling Harbour where were got 'corn on a stick,' a popular thing in NZ and OZ, and watched two circuses that for whatever reason were set up for the public. Afterwards, we walked to the Chinese Friendship Gardens, where Bec and I dressed up like Chinese Royalty. I've never had more fun playing dressup in my life!!! We then hit up Paddy's market, which had a bunch of cheap Aussie stuff for tourists, and then we got flat whites to reenergize us. For dinner we met Emily and Rachel, both from MU's J-school, at Pancakes on the Rocks, which was, as Will Ferrell would say, ScrUmTrilleScent! We headed back to Becky's, watched some Ellen Degeneres standup (my fav!), and then walked to Macquarie Uni to check our email. I was quite excited b/c I received an email saying that I was elected VP of Meetings for Ad club next year!

Monday April 17:
Bec and I woke up early, took a bus and then a train (2 hrs) to Katoomba to see the Blue Mountains. We checked into our hostel, the Flying Fox, hit up a fresh fruit market, and hiked to see the Three Sisters. I'm not quite sure why its called the Blue Mountains, b/c it looked more similar to the Grand Canyon than actual mountains, but it was very pretty nonetheless! The Katoomba Cascades were cool as well. We then walked back into the tiny town of Katoomba, ate some Thai food, and returned to our hostel. I actually met a guy that was staying in our room from Avon, which is only 20 mins. from Lakewood!! It was a low key night, and we read by the fire in the hostel, which was a really laid-back, cozy place. (painted in really bright fun colors!)

Tuesday April 18:
Becky and I hiked in the Blue Mountains again, this time conquering the Giant Staircase and Furbur Stairs, easily the most stairs I'll ever walk in my entire life, whew. We then got kebabs, which are also a more common in OZ and NZ, and hoped back on the train to Sydney. Like the old ladies we are, Becky taught me how to knit, and I taught her how to crochet, which we subsequently did on all of our train and bus rides. That night we saw Walk the Line with Becky's Aussie friend Meredith.

Wednesday April 19:
Becky and I flew into Ballina, and took a shuttle to Byron Bay, a hippie surf town right on the beach. We stayed at the Arts Factory hostel, which has hands-down been the coolest hostel I've ever stayed. It had a very 70's feel to it, everyone was very friendly, there were murals everywhere, a Buddha bar, a cinema, arts studio, pool, hot tub, volleyball court, and "make your own didgereedoo" station. We headed into town, and I'd make a bet, there's probably no place in the world with more hippie shops in such a tiny area, seriously. However, for Bec and I it was perfect! We hung out at the Buddha bar early on, watching Cockadoo Paul's didgereedoo and guitar perfomance, and then won a free surf lesson from Mojosurf. (The crowd voted us as doing the best surf pose) We played pool, went into town, where we randomly ran into some American boys that Becky lives with in Sydney. We all went to Cheeky Monkey, which was packed with people, more of who were dancing on tables than on the ground. It was there that I found out that not only does NZ love the 80's, but so does Aussie! Thank god Becky was alright after falling off a table during "Living on a Prayer!"

Thursday April 20:
Like I said before, the Arts Factory has a 70's hippie vipe to it, so you could imagine how high everyone else got since it was 4-20. Becky and I walked into town, laid out on the beach, and then when to Mojosurf for our free surf lesson. We took a van with ten others from around the world, to Lennox Head beach, 20 mins away. Our instructors, Dan and James, had much better advice than my last surf instructors in NZ, and I got up on the first wave. Not only can I get up now, but I can ride the wave all the way in, it was such a gratifying experience! For dinner, Becky and I got mexican food, which tasted anything but mexican, haha, and then met some nice Israelis in the pool back at the Arts Factory. Later that night, there was music and a drum circle by the pond.

Friday April 21:
Woke up at 5am and took an Arts Factory van to the lighthouse on the hill in Byron Bay, where we walked to the "easternly most point in Australia" to watch the sunrise. It was quite the picturesque scene: the lighthouse, the beach, the sunrise... gorgeous. Afterwards, we packed up our stuff, shopped a bit in town, took a shuttle to the airport and flew back to Sydney. We took it easy for the rest of the night and watched A Very Long Engagement and Charlie & the Chocolate Factory. (with TimTams, delish!)

Saturday April 22:
Beach time!! We took the bus (once again) to the Harbour, then took a ferry to the town of Manly. We checked out the market for a while and then laid out on the beach, although the wind was a little chilly. After that Becky accidently got her ATM card stuck in an ATM b/c there was already a card in there, and in the meantime we randomly came across Brandon, another MU J-student studying at Macquarie. We got some Copenhagen ice cream and then took the ferry back, conveniently at sunset...ahhh. Becky, Brandon and I bought Toohey (a popular Aussie beer, but, let me note, different to NZ's popular beer, Tui) and watched Gladiator at Becky's.

Sunday April 23:
Sydney beaches, day 2! We took the bus to Bondi beach where we did a three hour coastal walk, passing probably five different beaches along the way, and finally ending up in Coogee. I found it funny how many pools I saw throughout my time in OZ that were right next to the ocean. It was a very "romantic" walk, and we decided Becky should get married there, that is, if she decides not to rebel against the institution of marriage. Oh, earlier that day, we saw kangaroos at the wildlife center on the Macquarie campus!

Monday April 24:
A nightmare. We woke up early and took a bus and then a train to the airport, however, our flights to NZ were different, so Becky and I split up once we got to the airport. I'm sitting waiting for my flight to board, and next thing I know, the flight attendant is announcing my name. I went to the desk, and they told me that Becky's ticket, which she had bought online, never had gone through in the computers, and therefore, she didn't have a ticket to NZ. Not only had Becky's ATM card got cancelled a few days before, but somehow that day she lost her credit card...hence, she didn't buy a new ticket to NZ, and took the three incidents that had happened in a matter of two days as a sign telling her not to go to NZ. After arriving in Christchurch I called Becky, and although we both were realllly bummed out that our plan to travel in NZ for a week was shot down, we both decided to travel around NZ in a few years to make up for it.

So I there I was, alone in Christchurch, at Charlie B's backpacker's hostel. I later decided that it was better that Becky didn't come to NZ, b/c the subsequent days that we had planned for traveling, were cloudy, and it never stopped raining. I'm really not joking: Dunedin's airport got closed down because of the flooding that was happening in the area, the Leith River was overflowing, and on the news, they declared it a "civil emergency." (although I thought that was dramatic) My time is Christchurch was tainted by the crappy weather and the fact that my plans to show Becky around this beautiful country were ruined. However, the two european girls (Danish and German) I was dorming with in the hostel really made me feel better. It was basically the three of us chatting in our beds like twelve year olds having a slumber party, talking about our different experiences in NZ.

Tuesday April 25:
Anzac Day, a national holiday in both NZ and OZ, commemorating the soldiers who died in WWI fighting as part of the ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps).

I woke up early in hopes of going up the gondola to see the mountains, however it was rainy and cloudy, so I just walked around the town until I was too soaked to take it anymore. I ended up reading all day in a coffeeshop (where these two Christian American older ladies were overjoyed to talk to an another American) until it was time for my shuttle back to Dunedin. I met a really nice kiwi guy on the bus who I had dinner with, and I finally finished the scarf I was knitting, which I ended up giving to Alexis.

Although my trip came to an premature end, I had a very memorable time with Becky in OZ!

Saturday, April 01, 2006

Backpacking in Fiordland (Doubtful Sound)

Fiordland National Park. A place that even the most eloquent description would not do justice to its infathomable beauty.

I spent last weekend on a 4-day backpacking trip through Doubtful Sound, one of most remote and untouched places to tramp in New Zealand. Nine lucky souls partook in this "Survivor"-like undertaking: Caroline(Norway), Daniel (Germany), 3 kiwis-Nick(OUTC VP), Stephen (OUTC former P), Adrian (leader), and 4 Americans- Emily, Angela, Laura and myself.

We set off on Friday evening from Dunedin and drove to Manapouri which borders Fiordland. We camped for the night by Lake Manapouri, woke up at 6am and boated across the lake. I knew that the biggest determinant of the trip, and where my apprehension lied, all revolved around the weather. Fiordland is more or less a rainforest, with odds of it raining 2 out of 3 days. The fact that we made it 4 days with no rain at all, sunshine, clear skies and warm weather has made me a religious person, haha. Adrian who has been to Fiordland countless times, said that our trip was the best weather he's ever had. With that said, the conditions we had made Doubtful Sound's mystical and stunning aura that much more pervasive.

With a breathtaking view of the sunrise and mountain ridgeline at our back, we boated to West Arm, passing a hydro-electric power plant that supplies 1/10 New Zealand's energy, a feat of engineering in 1965 when it was built. (Joe-you probably would have found this really cool!) We then got on a bus that towed our boat over to Doubtful Sound where we began our travels. Boating past lush green islands and striking views, we ate breakfast with the peaceful tranquility of the sound and mountains surrounding us. (I could spend every morning like this...)

We boated into a narrow inlet at the bottom of Evans peak where we secured the boat. For the next 5-6 hours we climbed 700m up the mountain, unfortunately with heavy and bulky packs on. We bushbashed the entire time seeing as there was no path or trail. Let me describe the scene here: Hour after hour entangled in vines, dodging branches that seemed to creep up on me at any second, falling into holes in the ground that I didn't expect, stubbling over rocks because enormous ferns blocked the sight of where I was walking, stepping into mud that slowly seeped into my boots, squeezing between trees and rocks as I climbed at some points at a 90 degree angle only to slip on slick moss and go tumbling down, my hands started to become raw after grabbing onto so many random plants to secure my balance, my calves started to burn but I couldn't stop because I knew I'd have to hike in the dark if I did, yet all the while I realized I was surrounded by a mysterious rainforest where at any moment I pictured a little gnome poking his head around a tree, and my inspiration lied in the incremental sneek peeks of the water where I started the tramp getting farther and farther away as I continued the rigorous trip up the mountain.

Finally at around 6pm we reached a reasonably flat spot at bushline where we decided to set up camp. We basically spent two nights on an overlook with endless mountains in the distance. We cooked dinner with the sunset surrounding us in shades of blues, pinks and purples and later that night we made a fire and drank Milo. (NZ hot cocoa) Five people slept under flies, and the other four (which thankfully included me!) slept in tents. Although Doubtful Sound was "undoubtedly" the most peaceful and remote place I've ever been to, part of me couldn't help but acknowledge the fact that if anything went wrong, we were in the middle of miles and miles (km and km, haha) of secluded mountains...a healthy mix of excitement and fear.

The following day was again gorgeous, and while 7 of us hiked to the top of Evans peak, Stephen and Nick went hunting. We spent 3 hours on the top (1200m) overlooking the plethora of mountains, admiring the view of the sound and how it flowed into the Tasman Sea, eating lunch and all the while engaged in good conversation. We then heard a gunshot and ran to discover that Nick had shot a buck!

Immediately Nick and Adrian began to cut open the deer, and we helped hold its legs back as they took turns gutting it. Because our packs were still down at the camp, we couldn't take all the meat, but we still managed to take a bit away. Daniel and I were in charge of alternatively carrying one hind leg down the mountain back to camp. We had quite an amusing time passing off "the leg" especially during steep parts.

By the time everyone was back down it was turning dark, but we managed to still have a delicious meal consisting of chunks of fresh venison, in a blackbean garlic sauce, with cooked veggies and rice. I had never felt more barbaric in my whole life. There I was in the middle of hundreds of mountains, secluded without a hint of civilization, I hadn't showered in days after more physical exertion than I'd ever felt, our only form of drinking water was a tiny pond/puddle that supplied us with brown-tinted water, and for dinner I ate an animal that I carried down a mountain (still warm on my shoulder) that had been running around only hours before we consumed it.

We concluded our night with some wine to warm us up and slept soundly. The next morning we packed up camp, and began the steep hike down the rest of the mountain. I wiped out nearly four times, and fell over 20 times. Even though it hadn't rained in a while, the soil, rocks and moss were still very slippery. An adjustment I kept having to make throughout the weekend was convincing myself of the fact that there are no snakes or dangerous animals to be weary of when hiking. (i.e. no snakes will slither out from under the rock that my boot was under) We took a slightly different way down the mountain, led by the kiwis, and all the rest of us were wondering how they were going to get back down to the boat since we weren't following a path. To our amazement, they led us directly to the boat and the sweaty nine of us jumped in the river immediately. We were immediately attacked by the notorious sandflies, which are the equivalent to Canadian blackflies. Even a week later now, I still am constantly itching!

We spent the rest of the day boating around the sound, passing through little islands and then eventually we boated out to the Tasman Sea. Our little 6m boat (roughly 18ft) went crashing into the waves as we got covered in salt water. The coast line was absolutely unreal especially with the sun beaming on it, and we were entertained as we watched the enormous waves slam into the rocks. We boated back into the sound and within 15 minutes we were greeted by a pod of about 30 dolphins that swam and jumped beside our boat. At that point, I was sitting on the bow and was nearly close enough to reach out and touch one of the dolphins.

It had been a surreal trip and I was reluctant to boat back to the dock. I felt as though Doubtful Sound embodied the essence of New Zealand and its fresh, untouched landscapes. On the 3 1/2 hr. drive back I couldn't help but think about how grateful I was to the kiwi bikers I met in Colorado last summer who persuaded me to come to their homeland instead of Sydney, and to my Mom who had always been in love with New Zealand who also encouraged me to come here. What divine adventure has resulted from such a choice!

Three particular aspects of the trip made it a truly inspiring experience. The first, knowing that while tramping (most likely) no one has ever stepped where I stepped before since Doubtful Sound is not a tramping destination by virtually anyone due to its inopportune location. Secondly, tramping and boating with tramping club which is led by experienced kiwis vs paying a commercial boat really makes the excursion feel more authentic as well as getting to personally know the people. And lastly, the sense of accomplishment you feel after hiking a mountain is much greater in NZ than in the states. In Colorado for example, although you may hike to the top, the trailhead where you begin is already nearly a quarter to halfway up the mountain, vs in NZ where you literally start from 150m above sea-level or less.

Random fact: Doubtful Sound got its name from Captain James Cook (English explorer who founded NZ around 1770) who entered the sound and indicated that it would be doubtful if they ever made it out once they sailed in.

Here's how my trip leader Adrian described Fiordland:
"The real Fiordland, the Fiordland of massive blocks of faulted rock plunging hundreds of meters into the glacial carved valleys below. Valleys so moist and dank; the air is thick with the pungency of impenetrable vegetation, that which is alive and that decaying. Valleys for which the long months of winter never feel the heat from the sun. Filled with a mist that hangs like your Grandmothers old curtains that should have blown out by now yet are persevering in there. Valley floors littered with ferns, fallen trees and bisected by crystal clear flowing rivers sparingly stocked with big fat old trout.

It is up one of these valleys, deep into the heart of Fiordland that I wish to go. The real Fiordland, the Fiordland across the lakes, themselves formed just a few thousand years ago when the glacial ice finally receded back towards the main divide.

The Falcon herself will be passing through a myriad of small islands, channels, and white sandy beaches until we get to where the valley begins. We then head across a wide and dangerous vertical walled lake and regroup in the flood prone forest at the foot of the real Fiordland."

If you're interested in pictures from the trip and don't have the link to my picture website, here it goes:
http://community.webshots.com/user/rebecky2113
Cheers!

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

St. Patrick's Day and such

What's new:
Last week, the absence of journalism and advertising in my academic sphere finally set in, so I decided to stop by the Critic, Otago's student news magazine, to see if they needed any help in the ad department. They didn't, but instead I volunteered to be a photographer. I did two photo assignments last week at two different Dunedin art galleries that were published in this week's Critic. I'm hoping this experience will improve my photography skills!

I also did a tour of the Cadbury chocolate factory in Dunedin, which was delicious and heaven for chocolate-lovers! After being here, Cadbury is definitely my chocolate brand of choice. I also found out that the Cadbury we eat in the states is deceptively not really Cadbury, Hershey just bought the name. Hence, why Cadbury tastes better here. Boooo to Hersheys.

This past weekend was the first weekend I spent in Dunedin since my first week here. Thursday was Eric's 21st birthday, so we started our night drinking wine and then went to Curry Box for dinner. We then sang to him back at 480 and hit up the Bowler to watch Chelsea and Haley in the Lip Syncing Championship for $1000. (They came in 3rd) David and I had to leave early though b/c I wasn't feeling well.

Friday for St. Patrick's Day, Chelsea, Avery, Paige and I (who all live at 480) entered a Scavenger Hunt throughout Dunedin to win $4000. (NZ loves giving away free stuff, I already got a free MP3 player from my bank!) We didn't win but we had fun running all over Dunedin all night looking for random stuff.(dragging drunken Irish Timmy out of bed so he could do an irish jig at the Octagon pretending to be a leprecaun for one of our team points) Afterwards, we went back to the Octagon until 5:30am, which has classier bars than the student ones that are close to campus.

Saturday I went to my first New Zealand rugby game, the Hylanders (of Dunedin) vs. the Sharks (South Africa). Goulet and I did some face painting beforehand too. The Highlanders lost, but it was still a fun experience nonetheless. (I'd still prefer watching an Indians game at Jacob's Field over rugby!) Later that night we saw the Sharks rugby team heading to the bars, a conspicuous group of 20 ripped guys.

Sunday night Eric, Peter, Robin, Paige, Mike and I (all live at 480) drove 20 min. to Long Beach where were we walked on the beach until we got to this huge cave where we made a fire. Next time I think we'll bring our sleeping bags and then watch the sunrise.

Aside from this, during the weeks, I usually go to my classes, which most of the time are quite interesting (Hinduism and Maori) and then I try to take local hikes in the evening either with tramping club or on my own. Last week I went to Heyward Point right on the South Pacific coast where we saw seals and hedgehogs. This week I took a hike to see the glowworms at night, and tonight I did a hike through the botanical gardens up to Signal Hill. It was a very romantic view of Dunedin at night, and I enjoyed every minute of it. David came with me and we talked about what to write on our "Happy Thoughts board" on our refrigerator, haha.

Kia Ora!

New Zealand-the good and the bad

So since I've been here, naturally I've been taking notice of similarities and differences between the US and New Zealand. (which overall I'm actually surprised at how similar the US is to NZ) Here it goes:
  • No dangerous animals to be cautious of when you're camping/tramping
  • It's a no blame society, which means people don't sue each other, you just have to take more responsibility for yourself and your actions
  • Sometimes when you walk into a building you have to walk up one floor to actually be on the first floor
  • Not only do the cars drive on the left side of the street, but as a pedestrian you do the same, I'm still working on this one...it's harder than you think.
  • Instead of "occupied/vacant" in the bathroom, it's "engaged/vacant," somehow this is very comical for me!
  • They don't refrigerate their eggs!
  • The no shoes, no shirt, no service policy doesn't apply here. On a nice day you'll find people walking barefoot in restaurants, the grocery store, etc. (eeehhhhh feet!)
  • Because it rains so much, there are lots and lots of rainbows!
  • Mullets are fashionable here, yes, they love mullets, yes, guys AND girls. It's hilarious.
  • Jade, beef bone and paua Maori carvings are popular here, mostly made into neclaces worn by both men and women.
  • People spread vegemite and marmite on their toast, I guess its an acquired taste.
  • Hokey Pokey ice cream is amazing, its honeycomb, and really sweet and tastes amazing. Cadbury also makes Crunchie bars, which are the same flavor. I'll bring some home with me!
  • Its not customary to tip here, not in restaurants, bars, or taxis.
  • There are two buttons to press on the toilets here: a half full button and a full one, figure it out.
  • All the buses I've rode in seem to somehow break or have issues. All these instances are funny stories within themselves, so I'll save these for later...
  • Kiwis don't pronounce their vowels, they mumble, and are sometimes pretty hard to understand, especially Kiwis from the South island.
  • Text messaging as a mode of communication is why you buy a cell phone, actual phone calls are pretty non-existent because its a lot more expensive.
  • There's NO BLACK PEOPLE here! It's so hard to adapt to, I miss the diversity and even though I don't particularly like rap or hip hop, it's really weird being in pubs and parties without it.
  • The wine is fantastically delicious and cheap!
  • Roses of every color are everywhere, even in our student ghetto area, David likes putting them in my hair.
  • Tim Tams are so good. They are chocolate coated cookies that are so addicting, my flatmates and I often do "Tim Tam Slams" when you have hot drinks to eat them with.
  • I swear to god I've heard Bon Jovi's "Living on a Prayer" every single night I've gone out, Kiwis absolutely love screaming this song. Oh, that and the techno version of "Country Roads," which I'm pretty sure they don't even know where West Virginia is...
  • If you're lucky, when you travel to Queenstown you'll see shoe fences, where for 1/4 mile you'll see hundreds of shoes draped over a fence.
  • Kiwis are very friendly and helpful.
  • Not nearly as much homework!! Just lots of reading instead.